“I want to climb some old grey mountains, slowly, taking the rest of my lifetime to do it, resting often, sleeping under the pines or, above them, on the unclothed rocks.” – Mary Oliver
Revisiting the recent hike in my thoughts, I stumbled upon this little quote online. It resonates greatly with me, just generally, but also today, as I woke up once again with this wondering about what and where our places are in this world; how can we best be of “service” and what does it mean to live well. What makes good life? How do we pursue things and live fully each moment? How would it be to just live, simply and happily… like in the poem above.. walking on mountains. Sleeping outside.. If our basic needs are met, isn’t that quite a good place to be at. Having some food, water and shelter and a little bit of love. Then whatever comes on top of that is just plentiful and wonderful.
Be that as it may.. For me these days and nights outdoors sort of shake things up. Help me see my own shortcomings when it comes to appreciating the simpleness, bareness, joy of life. They help me see a bit more of what I might as an individual wish to do in terms of what kind and size of an impact I am having on my near and far surroundings as I go about things in my days.. They help with putting things into perspective again, even if just for a while. And what amazing sights there may be on the way, venturing into the mountains and forests..!
So, this is a little recount of the Tsitsikamma trail I walked in two parts a few months ago in South Africa. The first time I walked this path was two years ago and so, it was wonderful to return to it.
First day writing notes at the hut.. 6.3.2019
The first day’s stretch was largely made up of forest, I had forgotten how much. In the morning, Miki dropped me off in Nature’s Valley and walked me to the start of the trail. I didn’t start from quite the beginning, de Vasselot restcamp, but from the Kalander Hut, with a steep ascent.. It wasn’t as bad as I remembered. I met the other two people there who were going to be on the trail during these days. Though I had figured I would be doing this walk alone, I was then happy to know I wouldn’t be completely alone on the trail.
Above the turtle, or pig’s head rock formation, began the fynbos.. I threw a last glance at the sea, saw the pink protea flowers, heard sugarbirds in the bushes.. Miki’s van was still on the beach side parking lot down below.
I walked this day with the intention of being present and noticing the environment. Something I try to remind myself of most days; why not, for the benefits it carries! Still, I know what a struggle it can be to me sometimes.. Walking provides that challenge and opportunity in a nice way. The sea quieted down, silence grew. Then the forest started.. Kilometers and kilometers of it. What fabulous trees; the yellowwoods, stinkwoods.. The “ laughing birds”in the trees..! I haven’t quite figured out what they are called. Sometimes it bothers me, not knowing the names, though it doesn’t take away from marveling at them just the same. I walked across the R102, under the N2, and off towards the mountains. It is then a small incline all the way. Through trees the path meanders, over roots and rocks, first as a forestry road of sorts then as a footpath.
The path leads up to a waterfall. The pool was cold but lovely, though there wasn’t much water this time. After a little stop, up the path went… and after the beautiful high forest, the blackwoods became dominant. Bloukrans pass was on the right, the bungy bridge could be seen across the valley, and even the sea was detectable in the distance due to the cloud front hovering over it.
Through the blackwoods I walked again, following the white footsteps painted on rocks and trees. Remembering the first time I walked this trail two years ago. Back then we talked with Lisa my walking companion about the blackwoods right here and about their ecology, presence here, ways of trying to control them, the reasons for why it is thought this should be done… Some ringbarking and cutting had taken place, but here the forest still stood.
I felt in awe of the ancient piece of Tsitsikamma forest I had just walked through and curious about this patch of blackwood forest with its different atmosphere.
Then started the pine trees.. And the heat! Everything felt so different again. It amazes me how pine forest here seems a little out of place, quiet.. And a pine forest in the northern lands is so much more full of life, things having adapted to each other and supporting each others’ growth. Then it was 2 km to go according to a sign on the side of the path. After this one thinks one is getting near.. In reality it’s another 4 km still or so to walk along the forestry road – today in 30 degrees heat! And finally.. Bloukrans hut sign was to be seen.. The road passes a beautiful cool grove with interesting gnarled branches. .. Another 2 km.. 😉 Then – the hut is in front of you.
The view at Bloukrans hut is amazing. It is perched on top of a cliff, above a gorge of a river which runs so deep you can’t see it from the top, apart from some pools right below. On the other side of the gorge, the fynbos covers sloping hillsides and foots of mountains, interspersed with patches of furry looking indigenous forest. The foothills turn into mountain ranges in all directions. Above the hills right in front of you stands peak Formosa, which as the highest peak in this mountain range is to be seen from tens of kilometers away along the coast.
I went straight to the pools below the hut. I swam, sat, pondered… In my restful dreamy state I saw an eel and a few frogs in the waters.
Many thoughts and feelings came and went, but a sensation most strong was immersion. Touching and smelling the various vegetation, air, rocks and things, along the way. How this makes one feel more part of the environment, and to experience it more wholesomely.
Observing the other thoughts and feelings that arose, I realised I subtly felt guilty for just sitting and watching over the landscape. As if somehow I’m not quite “allowed” to relax… Alone. But I was, always would be. And just noticing that, letting it be.. was helpful. How funny that one would need to be reminded of this, again and again perhaps… One of “my things” to work on. To be a bit less judgmental towards myself, a bit gentler.
The others finally arrived, quite tired and dehydrated having been somewhat surprised by the heat of the day and the strenuousness of climbing the hills with their big backpacks. I assisted with them settling in and we all made some dinner. They decided to have their luggage taken from hut to hut from then on.. This is a service the MTO trail management offers hikers at a cost.
So, to mention it briefly: the Tsitsikamma hiking trail officially stretches over 6 days, and just over 60 km, leading through mountains, forests and fynbos. It starts at de Vasselot restcamp in Nature’s Valley, and Kalander Hut, and goes past Blourkans, Keurbos, Heuningbos, and Sleepkloof huts, ending at either Tsitsikamma village or the petrol station by Paul Sauer bridge. It is one of the oldest managed hiking trails in South Africa.
7.3.2019 – voices of nature and animal encounters
Keurbos hut. Arriving here today, I realised I had mixed the order of the huts in my mind, remembering this would be the last hut! But here I was and, the brain made sense of the reality.
Today started off early. With a beautiful cloud and sun streak colored sunrise over the mountains. Across the clear pools I strode.. up the ridge.. and down the other side. First through the colorful fynbos I could see the Bloukrans river gorge to my right.. swallows flying low, ravens shouting below me in the “depths” .. the walls were high and one could not see the bottom.
The path led through Buffelsbos forest where apparently the last buffalo of Tsitsikamma was shot at the end of the 19th century. Afterwards the path led down through the fynbos again. The various ericas with long, bell shaped flowers of different colors were frequent. Their sweet nectar can be sucked out from the bottom..
Down to another pool, big this time. It was the crossing of Bloukrans river. I had a lovely swim there, the water is cool, refreshing and clear with that reddish iron color.
Then the path went up another mountain, a series of them.. and another range further.. I could spot the sea through some gaps. The path then led rather straight for the remainder of the day. Through fynbos with so many plants and flowers. I heard a snake though I couldn’t see it. Heard streams from far below from other mountain gorges, wind howling through some of them, and otherwise it was really getting quiet. Now no cars could be heard anymore. Only pounding of one’s heart, own footsteps.. various birds; loeries in the forest; and the laughing birds, raven, sugarbirds, and so many more.
I noticed baboon faeces and feeding signs all along the trail for kilometers. Finally, reaching another cool grove of tall indigenous trees, I accidentally surprised them coming around a curve. Off to the bushes they ran, shouting whatever they might have been saying to each other.. For a kilometer or so I heard them in the forest near me. Finally, I saw them walking parallel to the path, rather near indeed. These thoughts as I do get, I then felt I was being tested.. And passed, as they slowly stayed behind and I continued towards Keurbos hut. It was still a few stream crossings under the shade of tall ancient trees, and a last stretch of forestry road through fynbos and pine plantations, until finally I reached the hut. It was a comfortable, spacious place. Vervet monkeys were around.
Just before reaching the hut I had a snake encounter by the “twin pools”. In the small, quiet space under the bushes I must have walked right over it.. It was laying on the mosses as I saw when I turned around by the water. Laying there still it was very beautiful. We observed each other for a while, or so it seemed. Then as I walked two steps away and looked back it slowly retreated.. So I watched it disappear into the vegetation.
It felt special to encounter it. Like it was a messenger.. For what though, I’m not sure. Reminded me of my special snake rescuer friend of course; he had been a lot on my mind. Having recently ended the relationship between us I then still wondered if this had been the right course to take. But rather it felt like I was also allowed to be on my own observing snakes, funny though it is to put it that way. Like I was headed forward on my own path, wherever it is to lead, and it was good so.
At the hut checking from a snake guide hanging on a wall I think I confirmed my careful guess that the snake was a berg adder, a rather less often seen snake that prefers the more mountainous regions.
The others arrived.. then; the rains started. It went on all night long. Next morning I checked down the path, went to the crossing of Lottering river.. and it was flood all around! The little path down through the forest and fynbos had become like a stream itself. The river was unrecognisable from when I had last seen the particular crossing.. Water rushed past wide and high, and the rope attached into trees and rocks to assist one with the crossing was partly submerged. I tried to imagine me or us wading waist deep or deeper through this.. And was still imagining it on the way back up.. But couldn’t quite figure out how it would be done! Not to speak of the other rivers we still would need to cross. The hiking companions on the trail said they wanted to quit for now. It would be a long time waiting till we could safely cross the river. So, we waited until the MTO forestry guys came to pick up my companions’ luggage, and the men then also suggested we pause the trail here and maybe carry on another time.. So we got a ride in the rain, on the back of the bakkie, through the forestry roads carved into the mountain sides, to MTO station and back to Nature’s Valley. I must say, for weeks afterwards I still wondered how I could have crossed the river. Would it really have been so difficult? But, it was slippery and wet, and I would have been alone.. Better leave it till next time.
It was quite something to experience the effects of heavy rainfall on these Tsitsikamma mountains. The word means “place of water”, and walking the trail, one can truly intimately feel the gift that these mountains provide to the surrounding areas by collecting and bringing water to the lands below. To our dams, rivers and farms.
Returning to the Crags, it had only been two days on the trail, and it still felt like a wonderful little adventure. Like stretching oneself outwards a bit, testing and exploring, taking time to just be and walk, be with the environment, sensations and whatever thoughts arise as well. No one else to share with, and the sensory input being the forest, the plants, the path, sky, water and animals, it is even in a short time quite easy to immerse in it.. feel like being welcome there. And feel like, in some way, that very act of walking, putting foot in front of the other, observing the environment and venturing through it for some purpose, could quite well be close to the very purpose of life itself. At least, it surely is one of the oldest most natural things we as humans end up doing going about our lives on this planet…
10.4.2019 – day of reflections
The chance to finish the trail came a few weeks later!
I continued from where I left off. From the farm I walked to the national road, to Kurland village turnoff, got a lift to near Lottering forestry station, scrambled through bushes and walked along a road to the station. Then I just followed the signs and forestry roads to get back to Keurbos hut.
On this morning of the walk I thought a lot.. of the people I love.. Of my place in life. It was a sunny morning. So many blessings and beautiful things there are in life.. I’m grateful for having the activities in my days that I do; work with Ingwe, Nature Wild, music, gardening, and crafts; times on the beach; times with friends, family. Hikes and adventures. What else would one wish for?
For me personally I then wonder, how is it that I still sometimes struggle with feeling at peace. I rested for a while in the forest, pondering on how my home is where my heart is, and no matter where else, my heart is for sure always at least with me. I’m always home.. This realisation every now and then truly fills my being and eases up the anxiety that at times pops its head during the ups and downs of life.
So.. a bit of space; how useful. Follow up on some dreams and plans, yet no need to be too uptight about the actual outcomes… Moving, trying, reflecting is important. Sometimes taking bold steps, or being with what works. Remembering that we’re never truly really alone.. And that not most things need to be taken all too seriously. Little lightness is often quite welcome.
So the thoughts went on…! Coming up with gooey cliches and interesting questions. The mind is such a fantastic companion, yet also such a pain at times. Well, the thoughts came to some conclusions that felt important at the time… Realised, that dreams of mine are sometimes vague, yet a few things remain; family: I’ll always make plans to spend time with them. Friends, also. Invaluable. This world changes.. but love for close ones remains.. There is the exciting, endless and invigorating challenge of how to live sustainably or along those lines on this planet and how to leave some “positive” contribution in so doing. And then there’s love for everyone and everything, too! Connection with the things around.. The birds, the trees, the paths we walk on. To live lovingly and compassionately as much as possible.
With such ponderings I carried on towards Keurbos hut. How different everything is in a different weather! Crossing Lottering river in the Toyota 4×4 last time, water reached halfway up the doors.. now it trickled underneath the narrow stone bridge. Yet there is more water in the streams than there was before those big rains came.
I heard ravens, crows.. Observed a kingfisher fishing and sitting on branches above the water. I saw another berg adder! Quite close to the last one, and near water again. A big one! I went again to relax by those rock pools.. Just a few hundred meters from the hut.
As I reached the hut, I had a little nap. It had been a lovely though hot, sunny, and heavy walk. A good work out! Maybe I did sleep for five minutes, then the others arrived. Lovely older people. I felt so shy, and wasn’t sure why.. Confidence! It comes from the inside. Just use your voice, and relax! I told myself.
However, it was a most beautiful evening. They’ve kitted out the huts very nicely. Some of the mattresses on the bunk beds seem fairly old. There are rainwater tanks though sometimes you may wish to boil the water for drinking. And there’s always some toilet paper, buckets with a showerhead underneath for showering… Fine though rustic toilets.
With a group of friends, this kind of a hike is absolutely fabulous as well. Enjoying each others’ company and testing bodies and enjoying the magnificent, mysterious nature and landscapes.
The following day – 11.4.2019
Today was stunning. The Lottering river crossing in a cool, clear morning air.. Climbing up the hillside before sun was up properly. Then there was the climb up the saddle, and magnificent views from the top. Looking back, one can see Formosa to the right, the tallest peak in the mountain range. The valley down below, sense of wilderness.. Moving a small distance and looking forward, one could see the other valleys on the other side, and more mountains to every direction. Exhilarating resting there on that spot a bit!
I was on that next stretch happy for having the distraction of people. The others caught up with me and we walked together a while.. Gave me a rest from my own thinking that was still rather relentless..! Then by the time we were down at Elandsbosriver, mist came in from the sea. Rocks by the water are vast and spur imagination. The path there follows the river for a little distance. After crossing the river the path goes up a bit, through pines and bush. Slowly towards lovely indigenous forest. Heuningbos was one of them. It stretched long.. All the old trees, many kinds of ferns, decaying wood and young saplings.. Little streams crossed the path frequently, water echoing in the canopy of high trees. Then finally there was a descend, and in front of me an ancient looking landscape.
Across the valley the path went, into the cradle of mountains. Heuningbos hut could be seen on the other side of the valley. Before reaching it there were more stunning pools. I had two swims in the meandering river. Some views over the pools called into adventure…
In between immersing myself in the hear and now of plants, smells, views, footsteps, exercise and sensations, my thoughts meandered to relationships of all things, and our wants and needs in them…
At the hut, the atmosphere was celebratory. Someone made popcorn, someone else offered wine. Everyone made dinner and nice conversations were had, of life and travels. Lovely, cosy evening.
Last day – the effects of fire
The others were so lovely. It was too little time spent with them.. Of this day of the hike I didn’t remember much from before. Just the saddles and some bushes.. and the river before Sleepkloof hut.
In any case, the last day was by the looks very different from walking it two years ago. Because of the fires that came through here since then..
The day started with the thoughts and feelings of fire. It was hot and there was a bergwind coming down the mountains. It was turning into a clear day… Walking up from Heuningbos hut, the views were amazing. When I got to a plateau of sorts above the valley, I realised the area had been burnt indeed. Smell of ashes was still lingering there. Mixed with the berg wind, and my own uneasy sensation, I got slightly afraid.. Could there be another fire? I then opened my phone, thinking I’d have some signal and I could at least check if there had been any warnings of fires. Tiago messaged me that morning from the Crags asking if I was ok. My heart jumped.. He had seen a warning of a fire somewhere towards the east. It was quite far away. I could relax. However it did take some time to shake off the uneasiness.. I stayed put a while, just gathering myself. The others would be behind me, everything was ok. I could see the sea in the distance. Mist hanging over it.. The morning was glorious. The wind and smells still made me uneasy but the worries seemed a bit more silly now. Forward I went through the scorched landscape; black tree stumps and new, green growth perkily streaking the earth with its sparkly light green.
As I walked I thought what one would do, should one actually get caught in a place like this in a fire. What could anyone do..? How did the animals feel when the fires raged through here a year ago? The thoughts of fires and survival were there.. of being fine on my own.. enjoying the challenge. Strength and vulnerability, rawness and yet the utter completeness of nature, merged together and brought a new kind of energy to my walking that day. Being in and with nature and the mountains.. So humbled, so honored. Reminded perhaps of the struggles of our age old existence on the planet.. those of finding food, shelter, water. Being safe from storms and floods and fires. Taking care of each other, reading our environment to get by…
Perhaps, on top of offering us so much in terms of wellness and learning, fitness and inspiration, any walks and hikes and saunterings on mountains, in forests or other natural landscapes can indeed serve to remind us of where we come from as beings of this planet, where we’re at right now, and what it is we might wish to be doing with our time in the face of the on-going changes in the world. It seems almost ironic that despite us having made so many wonderful adaptations and inventions to make living easy, healthy and productive, the world still sees things taking place that are causing seemingly unnecessary sufferings and deaths. Some of our inventive solutions have caused it to be so, and now that seems to be a cause for worry.. What can we do differently? How can we live well? Would people even know to live happily if all the “outer” circumstances were just fine, locally and globally? Or will we always come up with our troubles. We are very good at that! Yet, we are also very good at trying new things and finding solutions. And having fun. Maybe our current social and environmental “issues” are just calls for yet more inventive solutions to be found, possibilities for further exploration, chances for various kinds of growth and learning.
Maybe we are to re-invent how to spend our days, and walking in mountains is one thing more of us could do more, to enjoy the benefits it offers and to not forget that we always have options.. To find inspiration, energy for action, and to get fit in so doing…!
The rest of the day was hot. I walked down into one valley, hearing the baboons in the distance.. After a cool grove on the bottom the last climb started. It was long and hot in the blazing sun, and the bush having had burnt last year the landscape was fairly open. A few little streams came down the hillside offering opportunities for observing water life and cooling off fingers or toes.
Then finally I came to the top of the saddle, and could see to the other side. The view from there is unbelievable… The other side one can see where one has come from, down a mountain and up another, and ahead, the path descends into a vast landscape. Down a stony sparsely forested landscape, overlooking the huge river gorge far down below, tall mountains beyond it, and the sea in the distance. I walked down the path and had a late breakfast sitting under the shade of a pine tree. The baboons were calling right behind me then, the sound echoing on the rocks rising on my left. I could see the Sleepkloof hut below me in a patch of indigenous forest.
The signs of fire followed me a long way, to the edge of the indigenous forest. There, the coolness and green of the trees was very welcome. The last few kilometers I felt excited and a bit sad at the same time, walking past these ancient tree giants and feeling grateful for having this chance to visit their place of being. I tried to imagine all the life that those trees, their roots, the canopy and soil harbor and support…
The river before Sleepkloof hut is a stunning, fairy-tale like place. Long, curvy, moss covered branches of trees and rocks on the forest floor create an inviting setting indeed. Then the path climbs up to the hut. I had a quick look around there, and then walked straight to the garage. The last three kilometers the path meanders through bush and forest following the edge of the gorge. It feels rather odd walking out of the forest behind the petrol station and into the busy parking lot. Well, there I was, happy and content anyhow… Hitched a ride back to the Crags shop and walked back to the farm.
The images of trees, sound of trickling water, sights of mountains and sighs of wind in the trees and gorges followed my steps for days to come… And proved once again to be fuel for this unquenchable, delightful, eager thirst for ever more walking adventures.